One of the special things about natural wine is the attention paid to what seems like a non-issue (to most folks) -- the movement of grape juice from one tank to another. To the uninitiated or conventional wine makers the solution to the problem would seem straightforward, use a pump. It's less work, you can move faster, in essence a pump helps you scale your production. 

However for many natural wine makers they aren't looking to produce more and more, they aren't looking to "scale." They are chasing something elusive, they are trying to capture the pure essence of their vineyard and it requires them to consider every detail of the wine making process. Engineers might call this “first principles” thinking, starting with the end in mind and reworking every detail along the way. Martin Vajčner thinks this way. So back to the original problem of moving grape juice (aka must) around. What’s his solution for moving grapes? Gravity. Vajčner has set up his press above his cellar and the gentle pull of gravity sends his grapes down to finish fermenting. This gravitational pull enables him to more carefully move his pressed grapes without introducing unwanted oxygen or unnecessary agitation.  

As one might expect though, his consideration for wine extends beyond gravity. According to Aaron Ayscough's excellent profile, Vajčner has a deep appreciation for the geology of his vineyards. His vineyards in Znojmo (pronounced znoy-mo) sit between the Bohemian Massif and the Carpathian Mountains. Which means that in a some areas he can can have vineyards that have granitic, quartzic or sandy character to them (from the Bohemian Massif) or have a heavy clay/river sediment quality (from the Carpathians). Vajčner contributes the complexity of his wines to the diversity in geology. While that might be true in part, Vajčner himself also has a lot to do with the complexity of his wines.  

While the Czech Republic doesn’t have the same cachet as other regions of the world, Vajčner’s work, and others, are garnering more attention from those in the know. Stop in to grab a bottle of Vajčner’s handy work and see what else the Czech wine makers are producing.

Winemaker: Martin Vajčner

Country/Region: Village of Hodonice, Znojmo wine region, Moravia, Czech Republic

Grape: Veltlinske Zelene aka Gruner Veltliner

Making of: Grapes are hand-picked, gently crushed by feet and macerated with skins for 6 hours. No added yeast. Fermented and matured in Austrian acacia and Moravian oak barrels. No filtration, no fining. Zero added sulfur.

Notes: Acidic, stone fruit, spice. Benefits from a little bit of air after opening.