Anders Frederick Steen’s road to vigneron-hood was winding. His professional life began as a chef. Looking to gain a deeper understanding of wine led him to train as a sommelier at Noma in Copenhagen.  He went on to open his own restaurants– Manfred’s and Relae - both heavy hitters in their own right. In the midst of running the wine program for Manfred’s and Relae he traveled to vineyards extensively and started importing wines from vignerons he would meet along the way. 

In the 2010’s Anders relocated to Valvignères in the Ardeche in France. Initially a negociant* winemaker he bought grapes from families he knew and in partnership with Jean-Marc Brignot (a young Jurassic winemaker who disappeared as quickly as he came on the scene)made wines with no additives. Brignot departed to Japan soon after their first few vintages, but Anders’s move was permanent. He and his wife Anne Bruun Blauert bought a vineyard of their own and started making wine with their names on the label. 

 Speaking of labels. One can’t not notice them. Mainly because against the sea of avantgarde art of many labels of the natural wine world, Anders’ wine is particularly bland. At least in terms of format. The names of the cuvee’s though are not. In the shop, for example, is a Merlot with the title “Bad lighting, Call you later” and a white (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Marsanne) “Hold me closer”. 

In more recent years, Anders’ and Anne’s wines have risen in popularity. And for good reason. The wines are complex and lively. The pick this week, “Hold me closer”, a blend (see above), is vibrant with Elderflower, Lemons, hazelnuts and white pepper. Fermented in Alsatian fourdres (wooden barrels) it has a familiar Alsatian acidic (see Domaine Ostertag and Les Vins Pirouettes on our shelves) profile and a long satisfying finish. 

Very few bottles in the shop, worthy bottles to celebrate the warmer weather. 

Winemaker: Anders Frederik Steen & Anne Bruun Blaert

Country/Region: Ardeche, FR

Grape: 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Chardonnay, 15% Marsanne

Making of: Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay from 2022 slow pressed for 4 days and blended with Marsanne from 2021 during fermentation. first vinification in foudre they got from Alsace.

Notes:  Elderflower, Honeydew Melon, lemon, white pepper,  hazelnuts