The Beaujolais region is often cited as the cradle of the natural wine movement. If there was a heatmap of early adopters of natural wine practices, the region would glow red, but there would be small bright dots across Europe. One bright dot on the heatmap would hover over Radovan Suman’s four-hectare plot in eastern Slovenia. Radovan, unbeknownst to him, had independently arrived at the same conclusion as those in the Beaujolais. Chemicals in the vineyard and in the cellar were doing more harm than good. They got in the way of, in Radovan’s words, “what nature had created.”

Radovan took over the operation as a teenager when his father fell ill. He learned on the fly, and, through an interest in quantum physics, he discovered the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, the father of modern biodynamics. Radovan has since implemented biodynamic principles and has been growing grapes that way for the past 20+ years. Recently, he eliminated the use of sulfur and copper sprays in the vineyard, establishing himself as a true radical even by natural winemaker standards. Radovan is also passionate about the health of his soil, not just the health of his vines. He’s so committed to healthy soil that, unlike other vineyards, he does not till and grows grass instead. He is also a shepherd, grazing his sheep between the vines to fertilize the soil. 

While these practices may seem trivial, there are big debates about the advantages (or disadvantages, depending on whom you talk to) of tilling and grass growing in the natural wine community. While supporters of grass-growing no-till practices highlight the health of the soil as an advantage, others believe that by growing grass, a winemaker is putting undue pressure on the vines and may restrict the yield and/or the quality of the fruit. While grass in the vineyard is just one factor of many of what ends up in the glass, after tasting Radovan’s wine, one could easily believe that he is onto something.

Speaking of what ends up in the glass, let's turn our attention to Radovan’s Pinot Modri (aka Pinot Noir). Like all of his wines, there is no added sulfur, no fining, no filtration. The maceration is long, and the wine spends at least a year in wild cherry wood barrels. It's ironic that by stripping all of the amenities afforded to a modern winemaker, Radovan is actually playing the wine-making game on hard mode. His yields are smaller, he waits longer for his wines to be ready, and he does more of the field work by hand. All of this pays off though. The Pinot Modri is a deeply complex wine. Imagine, well-aged balsamic vinegar, cherries, sweet peppers, and a finish that just keeps going. While, of course, it can be enjoyed with food, one might want to spend some time just drinking this on its own.

Winemaker/Estate: Radovan Šuman/ Schuman 

Label: Pinot Modri

Country/Region: Štajerska, Slovenia 

Grape: Pinot Noir

Making of: Grapes are biodynamically farmed, indigenous yeast, long macerations, 1 year or more in wild cherry barrels, no fining, no filtering, no added SO2

Notes:  Aged Balsamic vinegar, cherries, sweet peppers,  

Food: Pot Roast, Bean soups, mushroom dishes